July 2019

One of the main reasons for our choice of cruise line for our recent adventure in the Cyclades was that we wanted to visit Ephesus. As a result of recent political tensions between Turkey and certain other nations many of the larger cruise companies have of late eschewed the customary stopover at nearby Kuşadası – thus ruling themselves out as far as we were concerned.

On Ephesus the ever resourceful Wikipedia offers us this:

“Ephesus was an ancient Greek city on the coast of Ionia, three kilometres southwest of present-day Selçuk in İzmir Province, Turkey. It was built in the 10th century BC on the site of the former Arzawan capital by Attic and Ionian Greek colonists. During the Classical Greek era it was one of the twelve cities of the Ionian League. The city flourished after it came under the control of the Roman Republic in 129 BC.

The city was famed for the nearby Temple of Artemis (completed around 550 BC), one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Among many other monumental buildings are the Library of Celsus, and a theatre capable of holding 25,000 spectators.

Ephesos was one of the seven churches of Asia that are cited in the Book of Revelation. The Gospel of John may have been written here. The city was the site of several 5th-century Christian Councils (see Council of Ephesus).

The city was destroyed by the Goths in 263, and although rebuilt, the city’s importance as a commercial centre declined as the harbour was slowly silted up by the Küçükmenderes River. It was partially destroyed by an earthquake in AD 614.”

But enough of the chit-chat… what you want is the pictures! Here they be!

Our excursion included the ongoing archeological dig on the site of the astonishing ‘Terrace Houses’ – luxury ‘apartments’ cut into the hillside (so as to keep them cool!). These featured central heating, plumbing and all mod cons.

From Santorini our Greek island cruise led us south to the island of Crete – specifically to its capital, the port city of Heraklion.

Amongst other things that we encountered during our brief sojourn there I was particularly taken with these two tugs in the harbour. Specifically I was fascinated by the extraordinary disparity in size between them. The little one looks like a toy!

I also like the dancing cranes in the port – and the decorative umbrellas in this little backwater in town:

What one really goes to Heraklion for, though, is to prospect the site of the ancient palace of Knossos – regarding which Wikipedia helpfully offers us this:

“Knossos is the largest Bronze Age archaeological site on Crete and has been called Europe’s oldest city. Settled as early as the Neolithic period, the name Knossos survives from ancient Greek references to the major city of Crete. The palace of Knossos eventually became the ceremonial and political centre of the Minoan civilization and culture. The palace was abandoned at some unknown time at the end of the Late Bronze Age, c. 1,380–1,100 BC. The reason why is unknown, but one of the many disasters that befell the palace is generally put forward.

The site was excavated and the palace complex found there partially restored under the direction of English archaeologist and pioneer in the study of Aegean civilization in the Bronze Age, Arthur Evans, in the earliest years of the 20th century.”

Most of the recovered artifacts are now in the Heraklion Archaeological Museum, whence these images were taken:

Images of bulls feature heavily, of course, as does the absurdly macho amusement of bull-leaping!

In the centre of the caldera of Santorini there are two new(ish) islets that appeared after the eruption that created the outer ring of islands. These form the visible part of the dormant – though potentially still active – volcano. On our second day in Santorini we boarded a lovely traditional Greek boat to visit the islands and to climb to the top of the cone. We also got to to swim into a small bay on one of the islands in which there is an underwater hot spring. One cannot but be very aware of the immense power the lurks beneath the surface of this beautiful and peaceful spot.

Images below… double click as ever for the big picture!

On our first day on Santorini we went on an excursion to visit the villages of Pyrgos and Oia. The latter is the second largest settlement on the island after the capital, Fira, and is probably the best known to those who have not yet visited. The gentle reader will see why this is so from the attached images.

First, though, this is Pyrgos:

We loved the hats as lampshades:

And this is Oia:

These images could almost be of a model – or of an Escher-like illustration:

Gorgeous!!

After a brief hiatus in Milos:

…to gather our thoughts and to absorb what we had already experienced it was onward to one of the highlights of our short voyage through the Cyclades – two days at Santorini. The InterWebNet furnishes the bare bones concerning the island:

“Santorini is one of the Cyclades islands in the Aegean Sea. It was devastated by a volcanic eruption in the 16th century BC, forever shaping its rugged landscape. The whitewashed, cubiform houses of its 2 principal towns, Fira and Oia, cling to cliffs above an underwater caldera (crater). They overlook the sea, small islands to the west and beaches made up of black, red and white lava pebbles.”

Once tendered ashore the main town of Fira is reached by ascending the cliffs by one of two methods – the traditional mule ride up the steep and twisty path, or the modern and spectacular cable funicular. No guesses required…

On our first day on Santorini we had one of those wonderful lunches – in a beautiful restaurant overlooking the caldera – that seems to transcend the usual dining experience. The food was fabulously fresh and every mouthful delivered an explosion of taste, the wine was chilled and chilling, the view was spectacular and the company was scintillating. What’s not to love?! This was the view…

Note that our cruise ship (the one on the left of this photo) is positively pint-sized compared to the giant that hove up later and dropped anchor in front of us. Bah!

Now – Santorini is known for a number of things, but perhaps most tourists know it for its sunsets. Indeed, on clear days (of which there are many) there seems to be something of a competition to nab the best spot to capture same (most probably these days in the form of the backdrop to a ‘selfie’ – but I will whinge more about that later).

Anyway – so as not to disappoint…